These steps can be used for any of the tanning chemicals that Van Dykes sells, with the exception of Krowtannor Automatic Tanner methods. Tanning is not all that difficult to master. It is possible to deviate somewhat from the following, such as time frames, etc. but this may cause results to vary. Do Not omit any steps. This will work on nearly any type of hair on hide from muskrats, to moose. These procedures are the same for tanning a cape to be mounted or a hide that you want to be soft to be used as a rug. (Tanning, a lot of the procedures are the same with the exception that a de-hairing step must be performed after the initial fleshing.) These guidelines are not meant to replace any particular product instructions, but are intended to be used in conjunction with those instructions. The main purpose is to clarify some of the finer points needed to product an acceptably tanned product.
Step 1: Fleshing
Thoroughly flesh the hide, removing all meat, fat and membrane. (We recommend using a Fleshing Machine.) Turn the lips, eyes, ears and nostrils. Do not wash the hide or get it wet at this time. Blood can be absorbed by using a dry towel.
Salting is one of the most important steps in tanning. Salting is what sets the hair and keeps the hide from decaying.
A: Lay the hide out flat, flesh side up. Apply a heavy application of non-iodized Salt. (This type of salt is commonly known as canning, pickling, or mixing salt.) Do Not use rock salt.
B: Rub the salt into the hide. Do not just pour it on. Make sure to cover the seam area and also around the ears.
C: If the cape has been tube skinned, turn it over and salt the other side of the cape. Apply a layer of salt to all areas of the flesh side of the hide.
D: Applying salt on the hair side is not necessary.
E: After salting, roll the hide up and place on an incline to allow fluids to drain away from the hide.
F: Wait approximately 12 hours.
G: Unroll the hide and shake all of the wet salt off.
H: Apply a new layer of fresh salt to skin as explained above.
I: Wait another 12 hours. If, after the 12 hours, the skin still appears excessively wet, repeat the salting procedure again.
J: If, after the 2nd 12 hours, the skin appears to be drying, with no more fluid draining from it, it can be hung up across a rack or a 2 x 4 to finish drying.
K: Do Not Hang From The Nose, Ears, Or Eyes. It is best to just drape the skin to allow it to finish drying.
L: Allow to hang and dry for 24 hours.
M: By this time, if the above steps were followed and completed carefully, the skin should be in a stable state. A stable state is when the skin can be safely left as it is for a period of time, even months, without fear of hair slippage or spoilage.
N: One word of caution: If the hide is allowed to completely dry, it may be necessary to use a relaxer, (such as Ultra-Soft) to relax the hide before pickling.
Step 3: Pickling
Pickling is the next step. There are various chemicals such as Pickling Crystals that will work for this. Some chemicals are more hazardous than others. Follow the instruction on the products package. All pickle agents are acidic in nature, so use heavy rubber gloves when working with these chemicals. Always use a plastic or rubber container with a lid such as a plastic trash can or a Rubbermaid tub. Never use any type of metal container.
Due to various factors such as the pH of the water in your area, it is virtually impossible to have one recipe that will work in all locations of the country. Use the instructions on your pickle only as a quideline, making sure to check that the pH is between 1 and 2 on the pH scale. Hot water will help dissolve the pickle salt, but allow it to cool completely before adding the hide.
Mix enough solution to allow the hide to be completely submerged. Assuming the hide has only been salted for a few days, you can now add it to the pickle bath. (If the hide has been completely dried hard after having been salted for a length of time, it should be relaxed first, with a relaxer like Ultra-Soft. Follow all the instructions on the relaxer that you use.)
A: Do not allow the hide to float in the mixture. Weight it with a milk jug, or something similar, filled with water and placed on the hide.
B: Agitate the hide several times over the next 24 hours, making sure the skin is not folded over on itself and the solution is touching all areas of the hide. After the first 24 hours, the skin should appear plump. This will make the final shaving easier.
C: The term "shaving" does not refer to shaving the hair. This term is used when describing thinning the actual leather.
D: To be assured of the best results with your tan, the leather of the hide should be shaved to a uniform thickness.
E: Shaving is also the first in preventing shrinkage. A thin hide shrinks less than a thick hide.
F: There are various ways of shaving a hide, but the most effective way is to use a fleshing, or shaving machine.
G: After this 24 hour period the hide should be thinned.
H: When shaving is complete, verify that the pH is still within the necessary range of 1 to 2 and return the hide to the pickle for a minium of another 24 to 48 hours.
I: The hide can potentially be left in the pickle for several more days, as long as a pH of 2 or lower is maintained.
J: To maintain the pH, more crystals or acid can be added, but Remove The Hide First! Test the pH before returning the hide to the solution.