Tanning a Hair On Hide (Part 2)

Typical Scenario for Tanning a Hair On Hide (Part 2)

(Refer to Part 1 for information on Fleshing, Salting and Pickling).

Step 4: Neutralizing

This is another important step. The ideal pH of a hide for the tan to work well is between 4 and 5. This can be accomplished in one of two ways.

A: The hide can be removed from the pickle and then Sodium Bicarbonate can be added to the pickle to raise the pH to the proper level. ( You can moniter the pH levels using pH testers.) The hide can then be returned to the solution and allowed to soak for 20 to 30 minutes. Stir a couple of times during this final soak.

B: The second method can be used if you are planning to reuse the pickle. (Reusing the pickle is done if you have a bigger batch, with multiple hides being done at one time. this is perfectly acceptable as long as the pickle can maintain a pH of 1 to 2. You will need to add more acid as necessary.) You can neutralize in a separate container using cold water and Sodium Bicarbonate to adjust the bath to have a pH of 4 to 5. (If the pH happens to rise above this level, simply add acid, or pickling crystals, to lower it.)

C: With either of the above methods, allow the hide to soak for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

D: After removing the hide from the neutralizing bath, allow it to drain.

E: For greasy hides, go to Step 5.

F: If the hide appears somewhat dirty now, you can use any of the washing agents sold by Van Dyke's, such as Van Clean.

G: Deodorizer Wash is particularly useful for smell skins such as antelope, bear, coyote and fox.

H: Use only Cold water.

I: Tumble or towel dry before going to the tanning step.

Step 5: Degreasing

Since these procedures are meant to be used as guidelines for most tanning, we must include an extra step to cover those particularly greasy skins such as bears, beavers, coyotes, raccoons, otters, muskrats, and other types of animals that have greasy skins. These skins have high oil content and unless this oil is removed, many problems could arise, such as continual "greasing out" or odors.

Note: If the skin has not been fleshed and shaved properly, the degreaser will not work correctly.

A: Draw a cold water bath.

B: Add a good quality degreasing agent and follow the instructions on the degreaser. Once such degreaser is Super Safety Solvent.

C: With this solvent, you add 2 ounces of solvent to each gallon of water.

D: Use enough water so the skin is not crowded in the solution.

E: Submerge the skin and agitate occasionally for 30 minutes.

F: After leaving the skin submerged, refer back to the washing and deordorizing steps in #4, letters G, H and I.

Step 6: Tanning

The following tanning procedure can be used with most of the tanning chemicals sold by Van Dyke's. Choosing which tan to used is a matter of personal preference. Two types of tans are: brush on and soak tans. Both are equally effective but the method of application differs. Follow the instructions on the tan that you have chosen. Regardless of which type of tan you are using, if the skin is to be used as a mount, it can be mounted "fresh" or right after the tan has penetrated.

Note: Penetration times vary on the type of tan used. For brush on tans, leave overnight. For soak tans, 12 to 18 hours is sufficient. Refer to the instructions that come with the tanning product.

Freeze: If you freeze the skin, it can not be mounted right away after tanning. Again, allow the tan to penetrate first before freezing the hide. Towel drying the hair is usually advisable before freezing and helps the tanned skin to thaw more quickly when you are ready to mount.

Refer to Tanning a Hair On Hide Part 3 for remaining steps.