How to Use a Reproduction Deer Skull

Step By Step Instructions For Using A Reproduction Deer Skull

By Pinchback Reproductions

Assuming that you start with a set of antlers on the skullcap you will need the following materials and tools to complete this project:

Duck tape
Magic marker
Saw for removing the antlers
Drill
Drill bit size: 9/64
Paddle bit for drill size: 7/8 average size
Phillips screwdriver
Dremel for grinding or small hand file
Medium grit sand paper
8-dry wall screws 2 inches long
2ft-by-2ft piece of plywood
latex gloves
Apoxie Sculpt
Paint gun or paint brush, touch up size
Bolt cutters
Safety glasses for eye protection
Skull paint touchup: lacquer or latex
Hanger & screws

If you're starting with cut-offs or sheds, have someone hold the antlers over the reproduction skull to simulate the way you want them to look and use duck tape to bridge the points like in Step 1 & 2, then skip to Step 4.

1. Using duck tape, bridge the left G-2 tip with the right G-2 tip using a single piece of duck tape, keep the duck tape tight so it does not sag. After attaching the duck tape to the antler tips, fold the duck tape over itself between the points so that it will not stick to anything. Bridge the tips of the main beam with another piece of duck tape and fold the duck tape over itself. You need a minimum of two duck tape bridges from the left to the right antler.
2. Using a magic marker on the duck tape bridges; mark the center of the skull on each of the duck tape bridges. This will be used later for alignment.
3. Cut the antlers from the skullcap, just below the antler burrs.
4. Clean the area below the burr. A dremel works well for this step.
5. Trial fit the antlers over the reproduction skull. Pay attention to the antlers' alignment with the front of the pectorals. The duck tape should hold the original spread in place, align the centerline on the tape with the center of the reproduction skull.
6. Do not be concerned if the antlers and pectorals have an air gap, this will be filled with epoxy later. Watch for alignment between the antlers and the front of the reproduction skull. Correct alignment here will require just a minimal amount of finish work later.
7. Mark and drill a one-inch deep hole with a paddle bit, in the top of each of the pectorals on the reproduction skull. A 7/8" paddle bit works well for average size antlers.
8. Mark and drill 3 holes (size 7/64 bit) 1" deep into each of the antler burrs. These should line up with the hole you drilled into the pectoral area of the reproduction skull.
9. Screw the 2" dry wall screws, one inch deep, one at a time into the antlers checking the alignment and clearance each time. Screw heads can be cut-off if necessary for alignment. Do not use a power drill for this step.
10. Center and attach the reproduction skull to a 2ft-x2ft sheet of plywood. Mark the plywood with a centerline and align the skull to it. Cut a hole at the top of the plywood so you can hang it on the wall. Wear latex gloves to measure and mix enough of the Apoxie Sculpt to fill both the holes that you made with the paddle bit in the top of the pectoral area of the reproduction skull. This is a 1 to 1 mixture. Mix the two together and place into the pectoral holes. You will need to save some of the unmixed apoxy to use later.
11. Force the antler screws into the apoxy and align the antlers to the reproduction skull. Do not be concerned if some of the epoxy is forced out of the hole during the alignment step.
12. Use duck tape to support the antlers while the apoxy gets hard. Place one end of duck tape under the plywood and the other to the antler tip. Use 4 pieces, 2 towards the back of the plywood and 2 towards the front. If additional pieces of duck tape are need for balance and alignment use them now.
13. Use duck tape to bridge around the bases of the antlers. This step is important as it will keep the antlers in place and prevent them from sliding to one side. Align the antler bases with the front and inside of the reproduction skull pectorals. Concentrate on having a good alignment between the antlers and the front of the reproduction skull. Repack the apoxy from the backside around the pectoral bases forcing out any air pockets. Clean off any excess apoxy using water and a paintbrush or Q-tip. This is the attachment part; you will add additional apoxy later after this step hardens.
14. Hang on the wall to check the angle and alignment of the antlers to the skull. Check the alignment of the marks on the duck tape bridges to see if they align with the centerline of the skull. Allow the epoxy time to harden. Minimum of 8 hours.
15. After the apoxy has hardened, adjustments to the pectorals should be made on the backside. Sand, file or dremel any excess material off. Add additional epoxy if needed to correct the shape of the reproduction skull and pectorals. Use the backside of the pectoral area for reshaping to match the contour or alignment of the antlers to the skull.
16. Wear latex gloves to mix the epoxy using a 1 to 1 ratio. Place the apoxy around the antler burrs and the pectoral area of the reproduction skull making a smooth contour and filling any void areas. Use a brush or Q-tip with water to smooth the apoxy.
17. After the apoxy hardens, lightly sand the area using medium grit paper. Concentrate on the contour of the pectorals and the union of the antlers to the skull.
18. Paint the apoxy and surrounding area with the skull paint. The skull paint will match the skull's original ivory bone color. After the skull paint has dried you can elect to do a weathered wash on the reproduction skull. Some people like the weathered look. To achieve this look, apply a thin coat of the antler stain, let dry, then wipe the excess off with a towel and seal with Natures Gallery Sealer.

Two wood blocks are embedded in the back of the reproduction skull for anchor points. The use of a hanger or optional board will be easier with these wood blocks.